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Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol > Volume 5(2); 2007 > Article
Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol 2007;5(2): 119-129.
유화제와 액정 형성에 관한 연구
박인애, 안인숙
The Study For The Emulsifier and The Formation of Liquid Crystal
In Ae Park, In Sook An
ABSTRACT
Emulsion that contains a multilayer structure has a similar structure with the multilayer structure existing in the stratum corneum. Emulsion is highly effective for caring a sensitive skin and atopic dermatitis, which a dry skin caused by the damaged stratum corneum of a skin and a reduction of the content of ceramide in a living body, are known as the causes for. However, it is difficult to make an end product of emulsion have the structure stably because stability becomes different, depending on the ratio among ceramide, fatty acid (intercellularlipid), and cholesterol, on the mixture ratio of oily components, on the mixture ratio of emulsifiers, and the mixture ratio of polyhydric alcohol. In this study, a multilayer structure was made by differentiating emulsifiers only without any changes in the kinds and the ratio of other components. By doing this, an emulsifier, which makes it easy to create lamellar liquid crystal, was developed, through which a more stable multilayer structure could be made. Used emulsifiers are C14-22Alcohol & C12-20Alkyl Glucoside, Lechthin & C12-16Alcohol & Palmitic Acid, Hydrgenated Lecithin & C12-16Alcohol & Palmitic Acid, Myristyl alcohol & Hydrogenated Lecithin & Palmitic acid & Cetearyl Alcohol & Lecithin & Glyceryl Stearate, Batyl Alcohol & Stearic acid & Lecithin, Sorbitan Stearate & Sucrose Cocoate, Stearath 21, Stearath 2, Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate. As another experiment, this paper selected myristyl alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin, palmitic acid, cetearyl alcohol, lecithin, and glyceryl stearate, which have the best optical aeolotropy, out of the emulsifier made in the first experiment. And then, it made ceramide-3 of the same type as found in the human bodies by purifying yeast. Using the components selected from the emulsifier and the ceramide-3, it made another emulsifier and observed its aeolotropy through an optical microscope. The emulsifier containing ceramide was found to have a greater number of clearer maltese cross of a fixed size than the ceramide-free emulsifier. Thispaper kept the emulsifier containing ceramide, myristyl alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin, palmitic acid, cetearyl alcohol, lecithin and glyceryl stearate in a cycling incubator at -20℃
Key words: Emulsifier, mixture ratio, lamellar liquid crystal, aeolotrpy, evaporation
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