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Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol > Volume 12(4); 2014 > Article
Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol 2014;12(4): 547-553.
태지유사지질복합체의 제조와 특성
이민섭, 유영경, 이건국
Preparation and Characterization of Vernix Caseosa Analogues
Min Sup Lee, Young Kyoung Yoo, Kun-Kook Lee
ABSTRACT
Vernix caseosa is the creamy white skin surface biofilm which covers the skin of the fetus and the newborn. A recent human clinical study demonstrated that vernix caseosa has skin moisturizing and skin barrier enhancing properties. The aim of this study was to develop vernix caseosa analogues mimicking the unique structure and properties of natural vernix caseosa. The vernix caseosa mimetic formulations were prepared using high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion with skin barrier lipids, skin surface (sebaceous) lipids, cosurfactants and emulsion stabilizers. Stability studies of these vernix caseosa mimetics were carried out at different storage conditions for 28days. Subsequently, we have investigated whether topical application of vernix caseosa mimetic (VCM Ⅷ) improve the water content of the skin surface and accelerate the recovery of the skin barrier. Our results showed that VCM Ⅷ improved the skin moisturization compared with W/O cream and O/W DMS cream. Moreover, Observation at five minutes after application of the test materials (vaseline, DMS cream and VCM Ⅷ) showed that the baseline water content of DMS cream and VCM Ⅷ were better than with control normal skin. After applying drops of water on the testing areas and wiping them off, DMS cream obtained the highest hygroscopicity (69.77), followed by VCM Ⅷ (68.17). But VCM Ⅷ showed high stability according to the water-holding capacity patterns observed after 10 minutes. Finally, VCM Ⅷ showed a significant improvement of barrier recovery (58.3%) after 3 days compared with vaseline (50.4%) and physiological lipid mixture (37.2%). The rate of barrier recovery was also greater for the VCM Ⅷ (101.8%) than skin barrier lipid mixture (76.3%) and vaseline (90.6%) on day 7. These studies show that vernix caseosa analogue can both accelerate skin barrier recovery and enhance stratum corneum moisturization.
Key words: Vernix caseosa, Stratum corneum, Skin barrier recovery, Moisturization
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