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Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol > Volume 13(2); 2015 > Article
Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol 2015;13(2): 275-283.
화장품 소재로서 아로니아 추출물의 생리활성 연구
신동화, 최태부
Study on the Bioactive Characteristics of Aronia Extract as a Cosmatic Raw Material
Donghwa Shin, Taeboo Choe
ABSTRACT
Recently, Korea’s domestic cosmetics market is as large as over KRW 6 trillion, the export of cosmetic products has reached US 600 million dollars. Even though anti-aging cosmetics market has grown to more than KRW 300 billion industry, the supply of cosmetic materials has been hugely dependent on import (80%). As consumers seek more nature-friendly and organic products, world’s natural and organic cosmetics market has reached a value of approximately KRW 10 trillion. Under these circumstances, it is urgent to develop raw materials for natural cosmetics. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate aronia which has lately drawn a great attention. Aronia is a berry plant in the family Rosaceae, which grows in the northeastern part of North America. It was first introduced to the Republic of Korea in 2007. The Russian botanist Ivan Michurin started to reveal the diverse values of the shrub. It’s been known that the perennial plant has abundant anthocyanin in its flesh and skin. According to comparison between aronia and berries, the deciduous shrub is 4 times higher than blueberry in terms of anthocyanin contents. In other words, it is the best natural substance in getting anthocyanin among existing berries. Recently, there have been a lot of studies on aronia in food industry. In cosmetic industry, however, it’s still very new. Therefore, this study examined if the native American fruit would be available as a cosmetic material. In an NR assay on the aronia extract in RAW264.7, HDF and B16F10, 80% or higher cell survival rates were confirmed in all concentrations. According to an NO assay on RAW264.7, for example, NO production was cut to less than 80%. With α-MSH treatment on B16F10, melanin, the production of melanin was induced. With the addition of aronia extract in different concentration levels, melanin synthesis-inhibiting effects occurred in a concentration-dependent manner, which inhibits tyrosinase expression. Therefore, it appears that it would be available as a material for whitening cosmetics. When UV rays were applied to HDF, MMP-1 expression declined more than 50% until the aronia extract reach up to 50 ㎍/mL. In other words, the inhibition of MMP-1 expression was confirmed after ERK and JNK activities were slowed down. In sum, this study confirmed the efficacy of aronia as a natural cosmetic material by proving the effects of inhibiting NO, melanin synthesis and MMP-1 production. It is likely that this natural substance would be available as a cosmetic material and academic data in cosmetics and skin beauty sectors.
Key words: Aronia, Anthocyanins, Anti-aging, Anit-melanogenesis, JNK, ERK, MMP-1
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