Asian J Beauty Cosmetol. 2015; 13(6): 909-916.
Anti-wrinkle Effect of Rare Ginsenosides, Produced from Ginsenoside Rd
It is steadily increasing the sales of herbal cosmetics, above all ginseng is very attractive as a herbal materials. Area of ginseng have been diversified with red ginseng, black ginseng and fermented ginseng and it showed more potent pharmacological activities than original white ginseng. As well as single ginsenosides, isolated from ginseng classes, exhibited also a wide range biological activities like anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle, whitening, etc. And cosmetics, containing specific single ginsenosides, are very popular. However the ginseng cosmetics maintain high price, because the ginseng’s price is high. For solving these problem, we studied with ginseng leaves as raw material of anti-wrinkle cosmetics. Ginseng leaves contain more amount of ginsenosides than ginseng root. But ginseng leaves are almost discarded due to detection of residual pesticides. However,
through isolation of ginseng leaves, we could obtain various pure ginsenosides. Especially, ginsenoside-Rd was obtained about 11 g per 1 kg of ginseng leaves. In this study, we performed to efficiently make rare ginsenoside-Rg3-S, -Rg3-R, -Rk1 and -Rg5 by steaming 5 g of ginsenoside-Rd. The alteration of the steamed ginsenoside-Rd was determined by HPLC analysis. It was confirmed that ginsenoside-Rd was perfectly
disappeared and new rare ginsenoside-Rg3-S, -Rg3-R, -Rk1 and -Rg5 was gained as major material. The mixture of rare ginsenoisdes was isolated by chromatographic method and pure rare ginsenosides were obtained to yield of 553 mg (Rg3-S), 232 mg (Rg3-R), 175 mg (Rg5) and 157 mg (Rk1). Five kinds of pure ginsenosides, including ginsenoside Rd, were tested for anti-wrinkle effects. Anti-wrinkle effect of ginsenosides was evaluated to measure the expression level of type I collagen genes (COL1A1) in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) using qRT-PCT ananlysis method. As a results, it were identified that ginsenoside-Rd, -Rk1 and -Rg5 significantly were increased the expression of COL1A1 in NHDFs. On the other hand, ginsenosides- Rg3-R and Rg3-S suppressed or unchanged the expression of COL1A1. Therefore
the ginsenoside-Rd, -Rk1 and -Rg5 were considered to prevent wrinkle formation and the loss of collagen. As shown these results, ginsenoside-Rd, -Rk1 and -Rg5 can be new anti-aging agents in the cosmetic industry.
Rare ginsenoside, Anti-wrinkle effect, Collagen, COL1A1